j_young_80
30-10-2009, 04:09 PM
What's the matter? You're in an area with steep hills -- there's not a flat road anywhere! You figure (rightly so) that climbing will make you stronger. But after riding the hills with enthusiasm, the main thing you have to show for it is a pair of painful knees.
Here's help: Quite often, knees in this predicament are suffering from poor bike fit as much as the strain of climbing. Sure, climbing makes the pain worse, but poor position is the trigger.
Here are 4 things to check if hills make your hinges hurt:
Saddle height. This is key, of course. It should be checked closely and adjusted, if necessary, using the formula of your choice. (We suggest one in the free article, "How to Perfect Your Position & Technique"). Also check saddle setback. A saddle that's too far to the rear can put your knees too far behind the crank, causing problems.
Cleat position. Even with cleats that allow your feet to pivot slightly ("float") as you pedal, their orientation is still important. Set them so your normal, neutral foot position is in the center of the rotational range. This takes strain off the knees by allowing feet to naturally point toes-in or toes-out.
Pedal float. Climbing is a relatively low-cadence, high-torque activity. This can force your ankle to pivot inward or outward unless it's stopped by the pedal's rotational boundary. Too much foot rotation increases tibial rotation and adds shearing force to the back of the patella. If you suspect this is what's causing your pain, reduce the rotation range if your pedals provide this adjustment. If they don't and float is more than 4 degrees, consider switching brands.
Gear selection. If you're attacking hills in a big gear thinking it will make you stronger, think again. Sure, high-gear/high-resistance intervals have their place, but not on every ride. Who will be the better climber in 2 months -- the rider who spins on hills except for occasional big-gear workouts as part of a consistent program, or the rider who mashes a big gear on every hilly ride, trying for strength but straining his knees instead? That's not a tough question.
Here's help: Quite often, knees in this predicament are suffering from poor bike fit as much as the strain of climbing. Sure, climbing makes the pain worse, but poor position is the trigger.
Here are 4 things to check if hills make your hinges hurt:
Saddle height. This is key, of course. It should be checked closely and adjusted, if necessary, using the formula of your choice. (We suggest one in the free article, "How to Perfect Your Position & Technique"). Also check saddle setback. A saddle that's too far to the rear can put your knees too far behind the crank, causing problems.
Cleat position. Even with cleats that allow your feet to pivot slightly ("float") as you pedal, their orientation is still important. Set them so your normal, neutral foot position is in the center of the rotational range. This takes strain off the knees by allowing feet to naturally point toes-in or toes-out.
Pedal float. Climbing is a relatively low-cadence, high-torque activity. This can force your ankle to pivot inward or outward unless it's stopped by the pedal's rotational boundary. Too much foot rotation increases tibial rotation and adds shearing force to the back of the patella. If you suspect this is what's causing your pain, reduce the rotation range if your pedals provide this adjustment. If they don't and float is more than 4 degrees, consider switching brands.
Gear selection. If you're attacking hills in a big gear thinking it will make you stronger, think again. Sure, high-gear/high-resistance intervals have their place, but not on every ride. Who will be the better climber in 2 months -- the rider who spins on hills except for occasional big-gear workouts as part of a consistent program, or the rider who mashes a big gear on every hilly ride, trying for strength but straining his knees instead? That's not a tough question.